https://www.texasmonthly.com/travel/rock-climbing-texas-hueco-tanks-enchanted-rock/
So that’s a bit of a snarky headline, but the potential along the Pecos, Devils, and other southwest Texas rivers is incredible. And incredibly lacking in public access.
Though the blogging world is mostly dead, there are still some dedicated Fort Worth and Dallas climbers doing good work in the region, and a new climbing guide was released a few months ago for the Nolan River Hamm Creek Area.
Fort Worth’s Jim Day posted it on Mountain Project, but I’m reposting his direct link here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Cdc8Oyg3Y6BYmMGazxxeBH9bESOmrOjr/view?usp=drivesdk
Also, a lot of the links listed on this site are now dead ends. I may get around to updating them eventually, but with enough googling and mountain project and the very helpful Internet Wayback machine, you might be able to find good info, archived data, and whatnot still out there.
Cheers.
Randomly saw this place referenced on a new subreddit and decided to dust off the cobwebs. Erockonline and rockclimbingdotcom are basically dead, so try Reddit (and/or Mountain Project) for your beta.
https://www.reddit.com/r/TexasClimbing/
Also check out the Texas Climbers Coalition who have secured permanent access to Medicine Wall in San Antonio and purchased Monster Rock in Austin. Join, support, etc.
If you live in the Denton area and are interested in helping start a bouldering gym, check out http://www.dentonbouldering.com/
I don’t know these guys or have any affiliation with them, but wish them luck in their endeavor.
Recently the Central Texas Mountaineers out of Austin held their monthly meeting where they discussed the “lost” crags of Texas, areas where climbing historically existed but to where access is tenuous or non-existent. The presentation was posted on Erockonline.com and you can view the slides HERE.
The author, Joel Schopp, is a CTM officer and Access Fund regional coordinator. He’s looking for a few good folks to champion specific crags to see if we can bring them back into the climbing fold.
Check out the link for some great info.
Remember the post that was made a few years back about Big Rocks Park and Dinosaur Valley in Glen Rose?
Well, it seems that a Dublin local has put up quite a few boulder problems. He admits that its no destination, but if you’re passing thru or when the temperature is 100+ degrees out and you want to be near some water, check it out.
Everything is posted over on Mountain Project, under Paluxy River Boulders.
Apple fanboys rejoice for a new iPhone app, Texas Rocks Lite, is taking shape with all some of your favorite central Texas limestone climbs.
http://itunes.apple.com/app/texas-rocks-lite/id449779655?mt=8
A full version with pretty much everything Austin has to offer is in the works.
From Scott Strong on the Mountain Project Forums :
“Good news folks. POB is no longer limited access. After climbing at POB today, we spoke with the property owner, Freddy. He told us to get the word out that POB is back open for climbing. The usual rules still apply:
Climbing is $10 a day
Camping is $6 a day
There is a drop box and sign in sheet at the house. Inside the box there are waivers that must be filled out if you’ve never been out there before. Freddy lives there, he knows who goes in and out, and he keeps track of who doesn’t pay. So please, for the sake of access, please pay for your climbing and camping.
When burn bans are not in affect (and they currently are), campfires are allowed. Be respectful! This is private property and we are being allowed to use what it has to offer through the graciousness of the owner. Practice leave no trace.
It may be chossy, but it is indeed paradise. Let’s enjoy it and make sure it stays open!”
Correction, make that sandstone near-ish to Dallas. Courtesy of the Five-Ten Climbing Blog, Ian Dory spills the beans about a new top secret crag within 2 hours drive of Dallas.
“…Jared & Ben have also been developing this new area 2 hours from Dallas (sorry to be vague BUT the location is a bit of a secret.) Well needless to say its a GOLDMIND- really an undeveloped HP40 with unbelievable fields of sandstone boulders.”
More than likely, this means another secret crag available only to an elite few and/or trespassing on someone else’s land where you’ll be chased off by the gun owning landowner or subject to criminal penalties. And 2 hours drive puts you in Oklahoma, so who knows where it really is. Sigh.
But here’s hoping that this area continues to develop into a public friendly climbing area for any and all regional climbers. We need it.
Carrolton’s climbing converted silos, formerly known as Stoneworks, will be reopening on May 21 as the North Texas Outdoor Pursuit Center bringing the same great climbing, as well as gear rental and trip guides for all other sorts of outdoor pursuits.
Check out their page here.
ClimbDFW 